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Cellar Favorite: 1890, 1990, 2005 & 2015 Branaire-Ducru (Nov 2023)

The 2005 Branaire-Ducru is really stepping up through the gears and is definitely worth seeking out. Deep in color, it has an exquisite definition on the nose: blackberry, cedar, wild mint and sous-bois. There is a vibrant energy to this 2005 that sets it apart. The palate is extremely well-balanced with crisp acidity. Tensile towards…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Pontet Canet was when Alfred Tesseron applied biodynamics on the Merlot for the first time. It has a lifted, red berry, blood orange and graphite-scented nose that is nicely focused, perhaps just a little rustic around the edges. The palate is medium-bodied with a minty opening, fine depth and crisp tannins. It’s grippy…

Cellar Favorite: 1890, 1990, 2005 & 2015 Branaire-Ducru (Nov 2023)

The 2005 Branaire-Ducru is really stepping up through the gears and is definitely worth seeking out. Deep in color, it has an exquisite definition on the nose: blackberry, cedar, wild mint and sous-bois. There is a vibrant energy to this 2005 that sets it apart. The palate is extremely well-balanced with crisp acidity. Tensile towards…

Central Tuscany 2003 and 2004: A Tale of Two Vintages
 (June 2007)

The 2004 Sassicaia is a lovely, understated effort. Medium in body, it presents nuanced layers of sweet dark fruit, licorice, menthol and toasted oak that gradually open onto a finely-knit frame of notable length. Today it appears to be quite reticent and still holding back much of its potential. Both bottles I sampled showed less…

Bordeaux 2018: Back in Black (Apr 2019)

The 2018 Beaumont is dark, racy and voluptuous from the very first taste. Dark chocolate, plum, cedar, cloves and leather all infuse an attractive, succulent Haut-Médoc. The blend is 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, and it is the Merlot that really seems to give the wine its mid-palate texture and overall…

Bordeaux 2018: Back in Black Without Scores (Apr 2019)

The 2018 Beaumont is dark, racy and voluptuous from the very first taste. Dark chocolate, plum, cedar, cloves and leather all infuse an attractive, succulent Haut-Médoc. The blend is 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, and it is the Merlot that really seems to give the wine its mid-palate texture and overall…