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2016 Chianti Classico – A Modern Day Benchmark (Aug 2019)

The 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castello di Ama San Lorenzo is a blend taken from Ama’s four core estate vineyards. Black cherry, graphite, sage, mint, juniper berries and licorice give the San Lorenzo a distinctly dark, brooding profile to match its powerful feel. The big tannins need time to soften, but there is certainly…

Chianti Classico and Beyond – New Releases (Sep 2014)

Felsina’s 2011 Fontalloro is wonderfully expressive today. Dark red cherry, plum, smoke, rose petal and sweet spices all blossom in the glass. Impeccably layered and sensual, the 2011 captures all the best qualities of the year. Sweet floral and red-toned notes burst with great energy on the structured finish. Fontalloro seems to have come a…

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Deep bright-rimmed ruby. Ripe black and blue fruit and floral scents, accompanied by olive and exotic spice and incense notes. Fleshy and concentrated yet lively as well, offering sweet, smoke-tinged cassis and blackberry flavors and a touch of candied violet. The spice and floral notes come back on a very long, penetrating finish framed by…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Grand Puy Ducasse has a clean, fresh blackberry- and iodine-scented bouquet that displays fine vigor and definition. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black fruit and plenty of cedar, although it cuts away swiftly toward the tobacco-tinged finish. A decent if slightly closed Pauillac that just needs more bottle age in order to…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Grand Puy Ducasse shows far better today than it did en primeur. Bold, racy and quite giving, the 2016 is a very pretty wine. Sweet red cherry, plum, spice, mocha and blood orange are all laced together. This is a decidedly racy, exotic style, and yet there is so much allure to the…

Central Tuscany: Maremma, Montepulciano and Beyond (Mar 2019)

The 2015 Saffredi is a powerful, racy wine. Even so, I don’t find the nuance, clarity or freshness that made the 2015 so complete last year. Part or all of that may be attributable to multiple bottlings. My feeling on the subject is very simple. Multiple bottlings inevitably lead to bottle variation, and that is…