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2018 & 2019 Barbaresco Take Center Stage (Feb 2022)

The 2014 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is soft, layered and seductive, as wines from this site tend to be. Silky tannins and lifted aromatics lend finesse to this inviting Barbaresco from Giacosa. All the elements are very nicely balanced. I very much like elegance here, even if the inner sweetness Bruno Giacosa prized so much in…

2018 & 2019 Barbaresco Take Center Stage (Feb 2022)

The 2014 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is soft, layered and seductive, as wines from this site tend to be. Silky tannins and lifted aromatics lend finesse to this inviting Barbaresco from Giacosa. All the elements are very nicely balanced. I very much like elegance here, even if the inner sweetness Bruno Giacosa prized so much in…

Vinous Table: Hurricane Sandy Charity Dinner at The Modern (Jan 2014)

We start with a side-by-side comparison of Bollinger’s 2002 and 2004 Vieilles Vignes Françaises, one of my favorite Champagnes. The 2002 is spectacular, as it always is. Rich, warm and resonant, the 2002 covers the palate with seemingly endless layers of burnished, honeyed fruit and the most finessed, subtle mousse imaginable. I don’t see the…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Village, which was bottled in January 2020, offers attractive green apple and lime scents on the nose, a touch of citrus peel developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded texture, creamy and generous, what you might call a crowd-pleasing Chassagne that would win wide approval, though maybe the 2019…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Good full, bright red. Deep, chalky aromas of dark raspberry, tapenade and saline minerality. A pure expression of soil, showing terrific inner-mouth tension and minerality to the intense flavors of brooding dark raspberry, pepper and spices. This wonderfully vibrant, energetic wine finishes with firm but suave tannins and a repeating peppery accent. Classic 2013 in…

Vinous Table: Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy (Jun 2013)

I have always adored San Giusto a Rentennano’s 2006 Percarlo, a wine I bought heavily as 2006 is my son’s birth year. Is the 2006 ready? Of course not, but after a gentle decant it is gorgeous with this menu. It is an especially good match for the pigeon and quadrotto. The bright Sangiovese acidity…