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Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Yquem is such an excellent Sauternes that just never lets you down. It has similar aromatics to the previous bottle a couple of years ago with saffron and quince. A little more marmalade comes through with aeration. There’s real energy and outstanding delineation here. The palate is well-balanced and takes time to meld…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Medium red. Aromas of raspberry and underbrush are complicated by a musky carnal quality and a note of mocha. Offers lovely sweetness and breadth for a 2014 village wine, with brown spices dominating the middle palate. Has the stuffing to buffer its tannins, finishing with very good spicy length.

2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Bright red-ruby. Perfumed aromas of violet, licorice and smoke. Like liquid silk in the mouth, with captivating inner-mouth perfume of berries, smoky oak and flowers. The broad, dusty tannins reach the front teeth. Doesn’t possess the force or dimension of a great vintage but offers the advantage of early sweetness. Not particularly backward today, but…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc: Moving Out of the Shadows (Jun 2017)

(half raised in stainless steel tanks and half raised in barriques) Limpid yellow-gold. Expansive aromas of orange pith, nectarine, iodine, pungent flowers and honey acquire a smoky mineral nuance as the wine opens up. Densely packed and vibrant as well, offering ripe citrus and pit fruit flavors that show a refreshingly bitter edge and a…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

Dujac’s 2012 Morey St. Denis shows the exuberant side of the year, even if reductive notes mask some of the purity of the fruit. Bold pomegranate, spice, plum and orange peel notes emerge from a pliant, expressive Burgundy that at present shows some slightly angular contours that need bottle age to soften.

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2012 Morey St. Denis is even prettier in bottle than it was in barrel. Pliant and expressive, yet also medium in body, the 2012 is beautifully balanced throughout. Dark red cherries, spices and new leather are some of the many notes that grace the lovely, inviting finish in an attractive village-level Morey to drink…