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Growing Up ‘n Getting Wiser: South Africa in 2022 (Sep 2022)

The 2021 Mev. Kirsten is pure Chenin Blanc from Stellenbosch. It has an expressive, slightly slatey in style, gaining intensity with aeration, hints of broom. The palate is beautifully balanced and poised, very mineral-driven, tensile and steely with just a hint of orange rind on the chiselled finish. Don’t think about opening a bottle for…

Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa (Apr 2021)

The 2019 Mev. Kirsten, which is pure Stellenbosch Chenin, is taut and precise on the nose, displaying a similar marine influence as the Kokerboom, plus touches of fern and lanolin. The saline, slightly nutty palate is supremely well balanced with a killer line of acidity and touches of sour lemon on the aftertaste. This deserves…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Clos Saint Julien is terrific. Deep, dense and explosive, it exudes personality. Inky blue and purplish fruit, lavender, spice, menthol and licorice run through this flamboyantly ripe, dense Saint-Émilion. All the elements are simply in the right place. In 2015, Clos Saint Julien is decidedly opulent. I would give it a few years…

Quinta do Noval: Recent Vintages 2011-2020 (Nov 2022)

The 2015 Vintage Port from Noval was picked from 2 September, stopping for the mid-September rain and restarting on 24 September. It has a tightly wound bouquet with black cherries, eau-de-vie, touches of sage and pencil shavings, light menthol scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly saline entry, fine depth, but…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Aromas of ginger, baked apple and nutmeg. Fairly rich and intensely flavored, with the rather full dosage not yet harmonizing with the wine acids. Shows biscuit and toffee notes, but I don’t get a lot of personality here.

Growing Up ‘n Getting Wiser: South Africa in 2022 (Sep 2022)

The 2021 Viognier Estate Reserve comes from vines on grey white shale (new plantings from 2016 were destroyed in the wildfire), so there is just 1.8-hectares that “soldiered on”. It has a backward nose with lime flower and light waxy scents. This feels very contained, then discrete menthol aromas surface. The palate is rounded in…