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Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Tertre Rôteboeuf has a ton of new oak on the nose that obscures the fruit underneath. However that is frequently the case for this wine, and it just needs a few years to absorb. The palate predictably follows suit, with a veneer of oak coming through at the moment. It's also slightly reduced,…

Cellar Favorite: 2017 Kanonkop Paul Sauer (Sep 2024)

In South Africa, there is a debate about whether the 2015 Paul Sauer is better than the 2017 or vice versa. They are both great vintages of one of the Cape’s icons. In recent years, I have moved more towards the 2017. A magnificent 3-liter bottle was opened and poured blind at the recent Bordeaux…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2017 Blanc de Noirs Presle is very subdued in this tasting. Medium in body and soft, the 2017 Presle is decidedly hushed in its personality and voice. It will be interesting to see if the aromatics and fruit emerge a bit more fully with time. Today, Presle is soft, silky and ready to go….

Sancerre’s Charm Offensive (Jul 2023)

If you’ve ever attended a classical concert, there’s a brief pause between movements of a symphony; in it, there’s a poised hush and a sense of crackling anticipation. The 2022 Monts Damnés reminds me of this hush. It is so very quiet, with a citrusy twinkle in its eye. Despite its initial delicacy and light…

Steenwold! South Africa: Ten Years On (Jul 2025)

The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Franschhoek has a perfumed bouquet, very well defined with black fruit, cedar and wild mint, demonstrating more vigor than its peers, more youthfulness. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy black fruit, quite savory and gamey, pencil lead notes infusing the slightly austere and Médoc-like finish. A bit serious perhaps? Tasted blind…

White Burgundy 2009 and 2008 (Sep 2010)

Very pale yellow-green color. Nose dominated by lime, crushed stone and steely minerality. Densely packed and almost painfully dry, with taut, penetrating citrus and mineral flavors showing more energy than flesh today. This ungiving grand cru has plenty of depth and flavor intensity but is an infant today. The stony, austere finish is like touching…