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Chablis 2012: Energy, Power and Class (Aug 2013)

The 2011 Chablis Vaudesir boasts serious depth and power. Peach, apricot and floral notes all meld together in a rich, voluptuous Chablis endowed with serious structure. Chamomile and honey notes appeal on the finish, adding lift and volume. All the elements are beautifully integrated in a Chablis that is all texture. In 2011 Billaud decided…

2012 and 2011 Chablis (Jul 2013)

(vinified in wood for the first time, including a bit of new oak): Good bright, pale yellow with green highlights. Aromas of white and yellow peach, wet stone, smoky minerals and vanilla. Comes across as less obviously oaky than the Blanchots Vieilles Vignes, showing a distinctly brisk and penetrating character to its peach and caramel…

The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

A wine of pure and ample breadth, the 2011 Corton-Charlemagne has really shut down over the last few months. Pear, almond and white peach notes emerge, but only with great reluctance. Today it is the wine’s intense minerality and salinity that dominate. The 2010 is a big wine. Accordingly it will require a measure of…

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

Good pale yellow. Penetrating aromas of citrus peel, spices, metallic minerality and crushed rock. Tightly wound, gripping and deep, with outstanding concentration and clarity and a density of texture that reminded me of the 2005 here. A flavor of candied lime peel is already quite exhilarating but this wine’s youthfully imploded character calls for at…

Burgundy 2024: One Battle After Another

The 2024 Puligny-Montrachet Village has a well-defined bouquet with apple blossom and kiwi fruit scents intertwined with an underlying cold limestone scent. The palate is well balanced with fresh acidity, fine texture and commendable mineralité, especially in the second half where it seems to kick up a gear. One to watch.

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 1999 Latour has a dark garnet color with little aging on the rim. The nose is closed initially and demands coaxing, eventually revealing blackberry, cedar and light pencil-shaving aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, displaying some secondary notes of clove, white pepper and a distinct earthiness that comes through on the finish….