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2012 & 2013 Barbaresco – A Study in Contrasts (Dec 2015)

The 2012 Barbaresco is lifted, precise and gracious in style. Sweet red cherry, cranberry, wild flowers and mint are all laced together in a delicate, understated Barbaresco that will drink well early. The 2012 is supremely classy and polished, but it is also unusually accessible for a young Gaja wine. In 2012, Gaja did not…

2017 Barolo, Part 2: The Late Releases (Oct 2021)

Conterno’s 2017 Barolo Cerretta offers a classic expression of this Serralunga site. The tannins are just a bit nervy today, which lends a feeling of energy and brightness that is palpable. Bright floral and white pepper accents lift bright red-toned fruit in a Barolo that is wonderfully translucent and nuanced.

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Petrus is every bit as grand as I thought it could be. A wine with no start and no end, the 2018 envelops all the senses from the very first taste. It is at times intellectual, while in other moments more hedonistic, but it is always a total turn-on. Silky and layered, with…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pétrus, matured in 50% new oak, was assessed over a period of 24 hours. It has a magnificent nose, replete with intense black currant, crushed violet and vanilla-y scents, the latter becoming subsumed with modest aeration. These aromas are chiseled to the nth degree and as harmonious as the Everly Brothers. The palate…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru veers towards a more malic style, a bit lean for its class with some reduction. The palate is well-balanced with a sapid entry. It shows fine depth, though it doesn’t possess the mineral core of the previous wine. Nevertheless, it does build nicely, so there is ample weight and concentration…

Domaine Leroy: The 2015s From Bottle (Mar 2018)

The 2015 Pommard Les Vignots is outrageously beautiful, not to mention a remarkable wine with which to kick off the tasting. Bold and racy, the 2015 exudes a level of depth and textural richness that is frankly hard to imagine at this level. The Vignots is surprisingly expressive, open and giving today.