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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Marquis d'Alesme is a very silky, elegant wine. Sweet pipe tobacco, cedar, dried flowers and mint are laced throughout this wonderfully nuanced Margaux. Bright red berry fruit, mid-weight structure and silky tannins add to an impression of total finesse. The 2018 is so impressive, even in the early going.

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Marquis d’Alesme (the Becker is only noted on the back label!) has a beautiful and very pure bouquet of violet-tinged black fruit, crushed rock and India ink scents, all very seductive. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, perfectly pitched acidity and a velvety-smooth texture that lingers. Plush and extraordinarily harmonious, and one…

2016 Barolo: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2020)

The 2016 Barolo Bussia is a wine of tremendous character and complexity. Menthol, lavender, black cherry, graphite, cloves and leather all open up in the glass. Virile and layered, with tons of depth, the 2016 Bussia has so much to offer. A few years in the cellar will help the tannins soften, but the 2016…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru has a rather backward and introverted bouquet offering boysenberry fruit and a touch of India ink. The palate is balanced with fine tannin and well-judged acidity. It just misses a degree of complexity and mineralité, making the finish pleasant but not memorable or profound.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Full, bright-rimmed ruby. Ripe, spice-tinged black raspberry, cherry preserves, garrigue, pungent flowers and a hint of gaminess on the expansive nose. Plush, appealingly sweet red and dark fruit liqueur and lavender pastille flavors turn spicier and more energetic as the wine opens up. The cherry and floral notes echo on a very long, penetrating finish…

Argentina on the Couch: Malbec, Terroir and Other Trends (Nov 2021)

The 2019 Malbec Argentino is a blend of grapes from venerable vineyards in Lunlunta and Paraje Altamira; it is essentially a premium Mendoza Malbec. A significant amount was fermented in whole bunches before spending 18 months in used French barrels. The complex nose presents notes of plum and blueberry with hints of country herb, jarilla…