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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champonnet 1er Cru is 100% whole bunch and raised in 30% new oak (Chassin). This has a more broody and backward nose, quite earthy in style, offering tobacco and woodland aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and good density, though it is unashamedly austere toward the ferrous finish. Give…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Champonnets 1er Cru is quite bold on the nose with upfront brambly red fruit, but there is something…unruly about the aromatics, missing a bit of focus and control. The palate is medium-bodied with plush tannins. This is a more forward, fruit-driven Gevrey. It’s a little low in acidity and, therefore, missing a…

2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

Here in its first release, the 2012 5500 is fabulous. Silky and aromatic, the 2012 retains gorgeous freshness and tons of nuance to match. It is the freshest of the three 2012s and a total knock-out by any measure. Dense, powerful and a brooding powerhouse, the 5500 is far from an easygoing 2012. It will…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Beaune Clos des Aigrots 1er Cru has an attractive nose with crushed strawberry and raspberry scents, becoming more floral in the glass with aeration. The palate is lively with a fine backbone, slightly chalky in texture with a stern, minerally, quasi-Pommard-like finish. Give it a couple of years in bottle. Promising.

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Corton Les Grandes Lolières Grand Cru is more reserved compared to its peers. It mainly features red fruit with rose petals and crushed stone, quite pure, and with time it reveals satisfying delineation. There is evidence of more new oak compared to others, and that still needs to be subsumed. The palate is…

1998 and 1997 Red Burgundies (Mar 2000)

Medium red. Slightly jammy aromas of raspberry, strawberry and mocha. Rich, supple and deep, with the sweetness of the vintage. Lush and lovely. Showing very well today. Displays the fullness of the vintage, as well as some of the finesse of the cru. Finishes with very good length. Bottled December 2000.