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Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(12.8% alcohol; 54 h/h): Amber-tinged red; based on other bottles I have tried, the color of this particular bottle seems slightly more evolved than usual. Penetrating aromas of strawberry jam, raspberry, red cherry, orange peel, flowers and minerals. Enters bright, dense and linear, with very pure flavors of red cherry, citrus, minerals, marzipan and subtle…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that I have not drunk for a number of years, so this was a pertinent reminder of its pulchritude. It has a flat-out gorgeous bouquet with ebullient red fruit, warm bricks (terracotta), hints of liquorice and strawberry jam. It’s the kind of bouquet that you could bathe in….

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Saturated deep red, with a hint of development at the rim. Roasted nose dominated by toffee and tobacco. Wonderfully silky but without quite the exotic ripeness of the ’90. Still, this offers uncanny retention of primary fruit. Expands inexorably on the finish and goes on and on. A wonderful bottle that still improving. (The bottle…

Loire Chenin: Dividing Lines (Oct 2023)

Having tasted this a year ago, I’m happy to find the 2019 Le Grand Clos in my glass again. It continues to be a suave, elegant wine with a distinctly salty edge. It is full and curvy, having been aged for ten months in 500-liter barrels. Still, the oak influence is subtle, allowing the subtle…

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Deep ruby. Powerful blackberry, licorice and exotic spice aromas, along with floral pastille, olive and smoky mineral flourishes. Broad and seamless in the mouth, offering sweet cassis, boysenberry and cola flavors that tighten up slowly on the back half. Smoothly plays richness off finesse and finishes impressively long and sappy, featuring harmonious tannins and a…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(14 barrels produced, vs. a normal 21; 15% vendange entier): Healthy dark red. Expressive aromas and flavors of smoky raspberry, plum and spices complicated by musky minerality. Silky, sweet and easygoing, but with nothing overripe about it. Ripe tannins will not get in the way of this plush wine’s early appeal.