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Montalcino: The Great 2015 Brunellos & More (Apr 2020)

Luminous garnet red. Perfumed nose of orange peel, cinnamon, sour red cherries, strawberries, talcum powder, and old fine leather, plus sneaky hints of slightly air-dried berries (not surprising, given how hot 2012 was, even taking into consideration that Biondi-Santi is one of the first estates to pick each year). Then juicy and dense with a…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 L’Eglise-Clinet is stellar. Dark, dense and also a touch somber, the 2021 is laced with generous black fruit, gravel, spice, new leather, licorice and incense. Readers will have to give this time to come together. I especially admire its substance, textural resonance and overall balance. Readers lucky enough to own the 2021 can…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 L’Eglise-Clinet is a wine that I gave five to ten minutes to open in the glass. It is worth being patient, as it responds with gorgeous black cherries, blueberry and violet scents, hints of crushed stone and a subtle marine element emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with blackberry, boysenberry, oyster shell…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 L’Eglise-Clinet was picked September 27–29, a rapid harvest within three days; winemaker Noëmie Durantou told me she wanted to beat the forecasted rain that would have diluted the fruit. Raised in 75% new oak, this has a less concentrated, mineral-driven bouquet that bides its time, offering nuanced pine cone scents with aeration. The…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 L’Eglise-Clinet is a spherical, sensual Pomerol of uncommon depth and intensity. Racy and voluptuous, with terrific depth, the 2021 is striking. Crème de cassis, chocolate, new leather, spice, menthol and licorice all build as the 2021 opens in the glass. The combination of power and finesse is remarkable. I especially admire the energy…

A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

Bottled at the end of May 2024, the 2022 La Conseillante takes time to open in glass, as I anticipated after its showing out of barrel when it needed time. There is a mixture of red and black fruit, touches of black truffle and a hint of crushed violet—all very finely delineated. The palate is…