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The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good deep ruby-red. Ripe, exotic nose offers scents of dark berries, black cherry, graphite, peat, iron, flowers and chocolatey oak. Very ripe and impressively dense, showing compelling depth to its lush dark berry and graphite flavors. A sexy sugar/acid balance gives this sharply delineated wine very good early balance but its powerfully structured, very long…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

((79% cabernet sauvignon and 21% merlot; 80% new oak; 85 IPT; 3.71 pH; 13.7% alcohol; a 50% selection for the grand vin Opaque purple-ruby. Blackcurrant and minty aromas are complicated by coffee and gunflint on the deep, reticent nose. Silky in texture and ripe, with very good complexity to the deep, brooding blackberry, cassis and…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2008)

The estate’s 2003 Grand Vintage offers attractive notes of honey, smoke, apricots, with a full-bodied, generous personality. There is good length here, yet slightly bitter tannins on the finish detract from the wine’s overall balance.

The Best New Non-Vintage Champagnes (Dec 2012)

Pale yellow-gold. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes lemon pith, pear, iodine and chalky minerals. Ripe and densely packed but lively, offering candied citrus fruit flavors and deeper notes of anise and fig. Becomes spicier and stonier with air, finishing with strong punch and lingering smokiness and minerality. More open-knit and overtly ripe that most of…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Gruaud Larose, which was decanted for 30 minutes upon my request, replicated its performance a couple of years ago. This was the final vintage to include Malbec (1%). It has a very “useful” bouquet of blackberry, juniper berries and cedar that opens with vigour in the glass with satisfying intensity. The palate is…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Gruaud Larose, which was decanted for 30 minutes upon my request, replicated its performance a couple of years ago. This was the final vintage to include Malbec (1%). It has a very “useful” bouquet of blackberry, juniper berries and cedar that opens with vigour in the glass with satisfying intensity. The palate is…