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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(46% merlot, 40% cabernet sauvignon and 14% cabernet franc; a 57% selection; 14.3% alcohol) Saturated bright ruby. The deep, brooding nose is quite marked by the cabernet franc presence, opening slowly with air to offer sexy, soil-driven aromas of violet, raspberry, mocha, minerals and sweet spices. Then rich and sweet in the mouth but with…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Brion has a powerful bouquet with ample blackberry, hoisin, crushed stone and cedar aromas, quite warm and welcoming but retaining satisfying delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, but it seems to tighten towards the fresh and persistent finish. Impressive but unequivocally not the best example. 14.3%…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Brion has a less precocious but more detailed bouquet, more nuanced perhaps with warm slates baking in the summer sun, tilled loam and cedar infusing the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, perfect acidity, layers of mineral-rich black fruit. This seems to have gained more complexity in recent years and…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Vivid deep ruby. Knockout fruity nose offers blackcurrant, strawberry, rosemary, truffle and a stony note. Then very closed in the middle, with cabernet sauvignon-dominated flavors of cassis, cigar box, cedar and minerals. Finishes long and deep, with massive but smooth tannins and a lingering note of violet. This will need plenty of time in the…

Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2020 Batàr, Querciabella’s Chardonnay/Pinot Blanc white, is laced with hints of tangerine oil, jasmine, spice and pear. Light tropical accents appear later, adding gorgeous nuance throughout. The move towards high elevation vineyards and picking earlier yields a Batàr endowed with terrific freshness and plenty of style.

The 2013 and 2012 Northern Rhône Wines (Feb 2015)

Inky purple. Intense smoke- and mineral-accented aromas of dark berries, cherry liqueur and fresh flowers. Spicy and taut on entry, then fleshier and sweeter in the mid-palate, offering spicy black raspberry and violet pastille flavors and a jolt of tangy acidity on the back half. Puts on weight with air while maintaining striking energy and…