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Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2007 Cos d’Estournel is what you might call a “serviceable” Claret. There is nothing pretentious or ambitious on the nose with lilting red fruit of dark cherries and wild strawberry. The secondary aromas offering hints of Italian delicatessen and meat juices. The palate is medium-bodied with that hint of liquorish that I have remarked…

2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Deep, bright red-ruby color. Aromas of plum, redcurrant and kirsch are complicated by sexy woodsmoke, soy sauce and flowers. Silky and rather lush, with a restrained sweetness and considerable finesse to its moderately ripe, sweet middle palate. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and lingering notes of minerals, herbs, dried flowers and smoke. A lovely 2007.

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 2004 Pavillon Blanc has an exceedingly Loire-like bouquet with impressive vitality. White tea and orange blossom traces emerge with time. The palate is beautifully balanced with Anjou pear and Golden Delicious notes. Fine weight and sour lemon impart tension on the finish. My only quibble is that it is a bit short, but otherwise,…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Haut-Brion is a vintage that I have not encountered for several years. This has an intense nose with dark berry fruit, wild mint, iris flower and just a touch of garrigues. Complex and entrancing. The palate is medium-bodied with the presence and gravitas you expect from a First Growth. Very harmonious with a…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Rauzan-Segla has a fragrant nose with red berry fruit, cedar, mint and a dab of dark chocolate. Fairly backward at first, it opens nicely in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins. It is a bit rustic in style, but there is satisfying depth and fruit concentration. Blackberry mixes with white…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Brane-Cantenac has an upfront, opulent bouquet with vibrant black fruit, touches of meat juices, mint and potpourri. One of the more complex aromatics within the Margaux flight. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, lightly spiced with a dash of black pepper. This builds in the mouth towards a structured and impressive finish….