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2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Cos ‘Estournel is a wine of real breadth and volume. It is also quite a departure from recent vintages in that strong Cabernet aromatics are very much front and center. Cedar, tobacco, dried herbs, menthol and licorice lend notable complexity to the bouquet. I expect the 2021 will need time to be at…

Montalcino: The Great 2015 Brunellos & More (Apr 2020)

Luminous red. Delicately smoky and ripe on the nose, with deep raspberry and red cherry aromas complicated by notes of sandalwood, licorice, graphite and sweet pipe tobacco. Full and rich but also very bright, with red and dark berry flavors given life by juicy, harmonious acidity and very nicely framed by supple tannins. Closes long,…

Buckle Your Seatbelts: 2019 Brunello and 2021 Rosso di Montalcino (Dec 2023)

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino is bright and punchy, with a wickedly fresh burst of wild strawberries, dried roses, sage, mint leaf and crushed stones. This sweeps across the palate, lifted and refined, with silky textures ushering in perfumed red berry fruits as brisk acidity maintains a lovely inner freshness. It tapers off long yet…

2015 Brunello: The Vintage We Have Been Waiting For? (Apr 2020)

The 2015 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino struts its Castelnuovo dell'Abate origins with pride, taking all of the best aspects of this sunny vintage and adding a savoriness that balances everything out so well. The bouquet is a stunning mix of savory cherry sauce, sage, seared meat, cinnamon, moist earth, and a hint of…

Cellar Favorite: Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1991-2019 (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Vin de Constance is matured for 18 months in 500-liter Hungarian and French oak barrels, 50% new, followed by another 18 months in oak foudres. The growing season saw more sunlight hours than previous vintages (2,998 compared to 2,588 in 2018 for example). It has an understated nose, almost Sauternes-like even if it…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Le Petit-Mouton is fabulous. Dark red plum, blood orange, pomegranate, mint and cinnamon all build as this flamboyant, striking Petit Mouton shows off its considerable charms. Even with the high percentage of Cabernet, the 2020 is supple and quite soft for a young wine. Bright acids perk up the mid-palate, leading to the…