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Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Haut-Brion is moving into its drinking plateau on the nose, which is now entirely open. Tertiary red fruit mixes with fennel, iron filings and a touch of Moroccan spice. Very fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. It’s a little sweeter and, as I commented before, a little medicinal in style,…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Haut-Brion is forward and intense on the nose. Blackberry mixes with cranberry fruit, incense and black olive compote, slightly ferrous and becoming spicier with aeration. It coheres very nicely in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, expressive and fleshy, and somewhat savory with cooked meats and brown spices on the…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Canon has a well-defined bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, melted tar and light licorice scents. The palate is medium-bodied with bold tannins for the vintage, perhaps showing a bit more extraction than present-day Canon. It is lightly spiced on the finish. It is a bit muscular but is drinking…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Red-ruby. Fresh, subtle aromas of dark berries, licorice, violet and minerals. Suave, fine-grained and rather gentle, with an absence of rough edges. An easygoing, attractive wine that finishes with granular tannins that build with air.

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 77% cabernet sauvignon, 22.5% merlot and 0.5% cabernet franc; 13% alcohol) Deep ruby. Sexy, exotic aromas of spicy blackcurrant, cedar, sweet tobacco and coconut hint at great depth and complexity. Then floral on the palate, with chewy, dense, rich flavors of black fruits, tobacco and chocolate nicely lifted by a distinct flintiness….

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Léoville-Barton is one of the few Saint-Julien ’09s to suggest just a smidgen of brettanomyces on the nose, although frankly it does not detract from its allure, with lovely meat juice and brown spice aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, juicy and slightly chewier than its peers, well judged acidity with…