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Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa (Apr 2021)

Retasted after a few months, the 2015 Estate Reserve showed differently than it did previously. It has a very menthol-driven bouquet, well defined though not ineffably complex. The palate is balanced and nicely structured, with saturated tannins and quite a dense finish. I am happy to raise my score for this wine.

2018 & 2019 Barbaresco Take Center Stage (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barbaresco Martinenga is already quite expressive, its very recent bottling notwithstanding. Crushed flowers, mint, star anise, orange peel and spice are all laced together in a Barbaresco that is all about transparency and nuance. The light to medium-bodied style is classic 2018 and classic Martinenga.

2016 Barolo: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2020)

The 2016 Barolo Sarmassa comes across as a bit light and compact in this vintage. Fruity and yet also searingly tannic and lacking in depth and balance, the 2016 looks like a wine that will drink well with minimal cellaring. Dried fruit, spice and floral notes are the hallmarks of a wine that is on…

Valpolicella & Soave: The Times, They Are A Changin’ (Feb 2021)

The 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Pergole Vece is especially spry and lifted, offering smoky minerals, citrus-tinged blackberries and hints of confectioner’s spice. It keeps the energy high from start to finish, as silky textures gain momentum through juicy acids, giving way to medicinal cherries, minty herbs and a hint of bitter espresso bean. The…

Piedmont Within Reach (Dec 2022)

The 2020 Alteni di Brassica is bright, crisp and wonderfully aromatic. Orchard fruit, lime, mint, white flowers and white pepper give this taut, nervy Sauvignon tons of character as well as complexity. All the elements are very nicely balanced. This is a terrific example of the Gaja house style today.

Sonoma: 2021 New Releases (Jan 2021)

The 2019 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard shows why this site is so highly regarded. Effusive in its aromatics and sculpted in feel, the Hirsch has so much to offer. It is very clearly built for cellaring, so readers should be in no rush. Blood orange, cinnamon, red fruit, mint and crushed rocks race through to…