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Exploring Northern Rhône Whites (May 2020)

Pale, glistening yellow. Penetrating aromas of fresh orchard and pit fruits are accompanied by hints of chalky minerals and pungent flowers. Juicy and concentrated in style, offering pear nectar, white peach and Meyer lemon flavors that tighten up and show fine definition on the back half. The floral note repeats strongly on the energetic finish,…

Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021 (Sep 2022)

The 2018 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru has more delineation than the Beauregard, very floral in style with Japanese yuzu and a very light reduction. The palate has a ripe and honeyed opening. Good density, rich like the Beauregard, but I am seeking more delineation on the finish here.

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Dark red with ruby tones. A bit higher-pitched on the nose than the Clos de la Bousse d’Or but with a sexy note of reduction to the very pure aromas of dark cherry, black raspberry, mocha and coffee; an unexpected floral note adds lift. Densely packed, concentrated and bright, with harmonious acidity and an element…

New Releases from Spain (Sep 2013)

Deep ruby. Complex, highly perfumed scents of dark berry compote, cherry pit, pipe tobacco and vanilla. Smoky, sweet and focused, offering vibrant black raspberry, bitter cherry and vanilla bean flavors that gain power with air. This doesn’t act like a 12-year-old wine! Finishes smooth and very long, with lingering sweetness and gentle, fine-grained tannins.

Vinous Table: Elystan Street, London, United Kingdom (Sep 2020)

The second bottle, from an estate I know like the back of my hand, was the 1996 Pontet Canet. One or two people had suggested that this might be past its best; after all, it predates the innovations and application of biodynamics overseen by Alfred Tesseron by several years. On the contrary, it has aged…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Blackcurrant, plum, tobacco and black olive nose is more complex and serious than that of either of the foregoing vintages. Thick, grapey and concentrated; still quite primary. This shows the fat and depth of the ’96 vintage in the northern Medoc. Finishes long, with substantial tannins. Impressive.