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2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 d’Yquem is rich, honeyed and voluptuous in the glass, but never excessively heavy. Crème brulee, candied lemon, apricot jam, orange marmalade, sweet spices and almond paste meld together in a Sauternes built on class and finesse What a gorgeous wine this is.

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

(70% semillon and 30% sauvignon blanc; 13.1% alcohol and 140 g/l residual sugar; total acidity of almost 6 g/l): Luminous medium yellow-gold. Almost Germanic in its perfumed, bright aromas of tangerine, grapefruit, peach, lemon, lichee and ginger. Lush but very fresh, with bracing limey acidity giving sharp definition to the complex flavors of honey, ginger,…

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Dec 2016)

The 2008 Extra-Brut Non-Dosé Oenophile is rich, creamy and beautifully textured, yet maintains the brightness and focus that are such signatures of the house style. A Champagne of real depth and power, the 2008 is a wine for the dinner table. The non-dosage style seems to really bring out resonance and intensity. Fruit sources are…

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Light yellow. Powerful citrus and orchard fruit scents are complicated by honeysuckle, chalky minerals, iodine and anise. Offers palate-staining pear and orange flavors, with an intense floral quality building on the back half. The suave, seamless, nicely focused finish lingers with resonating florality. Disgorged in May, 2014.

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Nov 2014)

Gimonnet’s 2008 Extra-Brut Cuvée Oenophile is soft, creamy and nicely textured, with attractive nutty and spice notes that add resonance to the Chardonnay fruit. This is a relatively soft 2008 Blanc de Blancs that brings together the energy of the year with soft contours that render the wine approachable today. The non-dosage style is highly…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Lynch-Bages contains proportionately more Merlot in the blend this year (31%) and will be aged for 18 months in 75% new oak. It has an intriguing bouquet, quite complex and classic in style, featuring tightly wound black fruit mixed with cedar, mint and touches of the estuary. One sniff and you know that…