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2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2006 Comtes de Champagne Rosé has come together beautifully since I last tasted it. Time has released its inner concentration and layers. Exotic spice, blood orange, pomegranate, cedar and sweet spice tobacco lend notable flair, with the the Pinot very much front and center.

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(12.7% alcohol; vinified with 40% whole clusters): Medium red. Musky scents of raspberry, smoke and black olive reminded me of Syrah. Suave and seamless in the mouth, conveying a ripe chocolatey quality as well as good herbal lift. More spicy and serious than the basic village offering but also more imploded today. Finishes with dusty…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Healthy medium red. Pristine aromas of cherry, rose petal, red licorice and crushed stone. Compellingly savory, sharply delineated wine with serious power–even a bit youthfully aggressive for Clos Saint-Denis. Firm acidity and a solid stony underpinning give this wine a seriously penetrating quality, with its juicy flavors of crunchy red fruits, spices, minerals and flavors…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru has more amplitude on the nose compared to the Clos-de-Bèze, offering layers of red berry fruit, briar, tobacco and light roasted chestnut aromas. This is beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin on the entry. Like the Clos-de-Bèze, the fruit is a little backward at the moment, though…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru has a rich, generous bouquet of copious red cherry and wild strawberry fruit tinged with Earl Grey and tobacco. The palate is well balanced with fine, supple tannin and a keen line of acidity. This is precise, not overly complex, but very well proportioned, building gradually toward…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Laroque is even better than the en primeur sample. Dark and enveloping, with tons of class, Laroque is a winner. Succulent dark plum, gravel, spice, menthol, licorice and pipe tobacco give the 2020 tons of nuance. Laroque is class personified. Winemaker David Suire is doing important work here.