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2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Le Petit Cheval is every bit as impressive as it was from barrel. Soft, silky and exceptionally balanced, the 2021 is all class. Dark cherry, plum, new leather, licorice, smoke and grilled herbs abound. The blend is 60% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc, with the Cabernet Sauvignon quite evident. That…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Le Petit Cheval has held on to that strict, almost Médoc-like nose engendered by the higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (33%): blackberry, briar, incense and graphite, the latter more pronounced than at en primeur. The palate is medium-bodied with a clean and precise entry, fresh acidity, refreshing sapidity and an almost briny finish…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Le Petit Cheval, which, according to Pierre Lurton, contains more Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, has attractive iris flower and incense aromas on the nose, along with plenty of dark berry fruit and just a touch of crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit on the entry, that Cabernet imparting…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Le Petit Cheval is fabulous. A parcel of Cabernet Sauvignon typically used for the Grand Vin gives the 2021 its core of dark fruit. Heady and explosive in the glass, the 2021 offers up a spellbinding array of dark fruit rose petal, mocha, incense and licorice. All the elements meld together so effortlessly….

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2013 Yquem is a wine that I tasted from barrel but for some inexplicable reason, never in bottle. It was picked over four tries from 25 September to 24 October. There is 140g/L residual sugar. As it was a relatively late vintage, they elected to use more Sauvignon Blanc (30%) to engender freshness. I…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Yquem is consistent with previous encounters. It has a fresh nose thanks to the contribution of the 30% Sauvignon Blanc, not as complex as other vintages, yet delineated with lemon rind and lychee hints bubbling up with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a keen line of acidity, pure and…