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Further Inroads Into Burgundy 2020 (May 2022)

The 2020 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru offers very pure red berries, undergrowth and rose petal scents on the nose, fresh and ethereal in style. This is very…persuasive. The palate is beautifully-defined, the 80% whole bunch impacting freshness and salinity, filigree tannins with an abundance of tension on the finish. Class from start to finish.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru sported a lot of reduction on the nose that made it difficult to read on my visit. The palate meanwhile, is clean and fresh, slightly reduced with a dense, concentrated orange pith and mandarin finish. That reduction will go by the time of bottling, although I am more…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Cras 1er Cru is heavily reduced and displays a touch of brettanomyces that obscures any fruit expression. The palate is sweet and candied on the entry, low in acidity, and quite animally and bretty, with a smudged finish. This wine performed much better in barrel, and given the showing of…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

Saturated medium ruby. Utterly primary on the nose, offering very ripe but not overripe scents of blackberry, licorice and dark chocolate liqueur; totally different from the preceding Vosne-Romanée bottlings, even though this premier cru is on the Vosne side of Nuits-Saint-Georges. Lively and youthfully imploded, conveying a strong impression of energy and extract to its…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

(bottled in March): Ripe peach and subtle mineral dust on the nuanced but youthfully reticent nose and palate. Plush and tactile in the mouth but also shows superb energy for the vintage. Best today on the tight but very long finish, which features a strong note of ripe peach. This will need a while to…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a sensual and pure bouquet with red cherries, redcurrant jus, crushed stone and pressed rose petals that gradually unfurls in the glass and ends up being more expressive than the Latricières-Chambertin. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, fleshy and perhaps the most dense of Duroché’s 2017s, real…