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Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Aux Reignots 1er Cru has a lot of fruit on the nose (mulberry, red plums and crushed strawberry) and comes across plush and quite oaky, with a little reduction to address. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins and quite rounded, though at the moment, this is dictated by the new oak,…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard “Haut Densité” 1er Cru has a lovely minty bouquet, touches of liquorice and Conference pear. Backward on the palate, this is a very textural Saint-Aubin, vibrant and spicy with a sappy orange rind and Nashi pear on the finish. This is beginning to fulfil its potential from barrel, but…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru comes from vines planted in 1936, and was raised in three barrels this year (two of them new.) It has a clean, precise tightly wound bouquet of blackberry, raspberry preserve, pressed iris and subtle undergrowth, almost peaty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, quite masculine compared to…

2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

Pale silver-yellow. Some obvious vanillin oak on the nose (Roulot ages his premier crus in 25% to 30% new oak), along with ripe aromas of apple and honey. Saline and dense, with lovely restrained sweetness to the ripe orchard fruit, honey and spice flavors. The tactile finish features dusty spices but not quite the cut…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Thorey 1er Cru has a tightly wound, earthy bouquet at the moment. The Vosne-Romanée Village is actually more expressive. The palate is dense on the entry with tight grip, quite firm in the mouth with dark berry fruit laced with allspice and a touch of anis. This is definitely going…

The HANY Charity Dinner (Nov 2007)

Dom Pérignon’s 1993 Oenothèque was a very pretty, slender wine with attractive notes of smoke, yeast and roasted nuts.