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Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Bellevue has a pleasant, slightly diffuse bouquet with brambly black fruit, sage and cedar aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with raspberry pastille, graphite and cedar notes, more masculine than expected with fine delineation on the finish. Perhaps this is a little more forward than I anticipated after tasting from bottle 12 months ago,…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

One of the sleepers of the vintage, the 2015 Bellevue (Merlot) offers a striking interplay of dense, dark fruit and the more savory notes that are typical of this cool microclimate in Saint-Émilion. Delineation and precision give the Bellevue much of its distinctive character. There is much to like in this nuanced, super-expressive Saint-Émilion from…

2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Power and Balance (Mar 2017)

(aged in neutral demi-muids) Brilliant ruby. Expressive red fruit, potpourri and smoky mineral scents show impressive definition and pick up a suggestion of incense with aeration. Stains the palate with sweet, sharply defined raspberry, spicecake and lavender pastille flavors energized by juicy acidity. Densely packed but lively as well, finishing with excellent clarity, sneaky tannins…

Mâconnais 2022/2023: Don’t Pass Me By (Aug 2024)

The 2022 Pouilly-Vinzelles Climat Les Longeays has a complex bouquet demonstrating why it is currently being considered for Premier Cru status. It’s pretty mineral-driven. Wild mint and sea spray notes surface with time in the glass. The palate is nicely balanced with stem ginger on the entry. The 2022 shows fine weight and is tangy…

Some Great Reward: South Africa (Aug 2018)

The 2016 Granum comes from the estate’s best, stoniest sites, containing around 30% Mourvèdre, and was matured entirely in puncheons and concrete vats rather than barriques. It has a tight-knit bouquet at first, offering blackberry, briar, fennel and light seaweed/marine scents that lend more complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and quite saline…

The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

Bright, dark red. Tight nose hints at blackberry, black cherry, licorice and violet, along with a medicinal menthol reserve. Dense, sappy and imploded, with black fruit flavors currently dominated by rather muscular minerality. This very rich but distinctly rectilinear wine is less refined than Boillot’s 2013s from Gevrey-Chambertin and its substantial building tannins will require…