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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru, which this year is matured in one-third new oak instead of 100%, has a very mineral-driven bouquet with impressive focus and vibrancy. I think that prudent approach to the new oak reveals more of that prized Montrachet “dirt”. Very expressive and transparent. The palate is brilliantly balanced with a fine…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Opaque inky purple. Watermelon and pomegranate on the nose, complicated and lifted by a floral topnote. Enters so smooth and suave that it almost seems too light at first, then shows juicy, lively flavors of cherry and raspberry, with richer, riper black plum and smoky blackberry jam emerging at the back. Finishes with extremely silky…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Malescot St. Exupery has such a sweet and honeyed bouquet, more McClaren Vale Shiraz than Margaux! The palate is sweet on the entry, huge extraction here, honeyed in style with a rather cloying finish. I am not sure what to make of this bottle because I have encountered marvelous examples in the past….

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Inky ruby. Ripe aromas of plum, blackberry jam and sweet balsamic vinegar. Rich and ripe in the mouth, with lively acidity lifting the creamy black fruit flavors and extending the wine’s lightly peppery, very suave finish. Not the most refined or subtle Margaux you’ll ever taste but immensely drinkable, and with plenty of depth and…

Buckle Your Seatbelts: 2019 Brunello and 2021 Rosso di Montalcino (Dec 2023)

Crushed ashen stones, cloves, dried black cherries, rosemary and balsam herbs create a spice box display as the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino blossoms in the glass. This is surprisingly fresh and energetic, nearly juicy in character, yet refined and focused, with silken textures ushering in crisp wild berry fruits and orange tones that slowly saturate…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright ruby-red. Expressive aromas of currant, tobacco, graphite, herbs, roast coffee and smoky oak. Supple, solid and broad, with a mouthfilling fleshiness leavened by good energy and vinosity. There’s a medicinal reserve to the redcurrant and dark chocolate flavors. Finishes broad and long, with substantial dusty tannins and very good length. A more muscular style…