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Mâconnais: The Headspinning 2015s and The Classic 2014s (Oct 2016)

Bright, light yellow. Brilliant aromas of lemon peel, white peach, crushed stone, fresh herbs and white pepper. Very rich and intensely flavored, showing powerful cut and a highly aromatic character to its crushed lemon and mineral flavors. Thicker than the Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Crays owing to its strong impression of dry extract but consistent from start…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru has a showy, almost ostentatious bouquet that is perhaps a bit unlike Chablis, though it is well-defined and seductive. It seems to gain complexity in the glass, with hints of yellow fruit and lemon sherbet emerging with time. The palate is well-balanced, with a fine thread of…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Chablis Séchets 1er Cru has a delicate and precise bouquet, understated initially, though it “expands” with aeration. Scents of orange blossom and melted candle wax emerge with time. The palate is well-balanced, and the entry is light and tangy. It has fine weight, but it doesn’t have the complexity I seek in a…

Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

The 2004 Brut Grand Cru Millésime is precise and delineated in the glass, with plenty of cut and overall verve. Crushed flowers, candied lemon, white flowers, almonds, mint and anise are all finely-knit in this chiseled, crystalline Champagne. A precise, saline finish rounds things out nicely. The mid-weight, linear style is very much in keeping…

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Cailles 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet of brambly red fruit, sous-bois, pencil shavings and crushed stone. The oak is beautifully assimilated and it “reeks” of Pinot Noir rather than the vintage. The palate is medium-bodied, taut and fresh, with filigree tannins, a killer line of acidity and wonderful sapidity…

2016 Barolo, Part 2 & Late Releases (Oct 2020)

The 2015 Barbaresco Albesani is gracious, floral and lifted, which is not common in Albesani, where the wines tend to be more powerful. Bright acids and lively tannins give the 2015 its shape and energy. This translucent, inviting Barbaresco has so much to offer.