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2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

(bottled in mid-May): Bright lemon-yellow. Deeper-pitched than the Pucelles, with nectarine and spice flavors complicated by leesy and smoky nuances. Big, rich and sweet, with peach and smoke flavors lifted by high notes of grapefruit and jasmine and enlivened by bracing acidity. Best today on the penetrating, rising finish, where the wine’s grapefruit cut leaves…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 1994 Pichon Baron is a vintage that I have not tasted for some time. It was always a level up from the previous three vintages. The nose is now fully mature with red fruit, cedar, wild mushroom and light estuarine scents, perhaps just a bit diffuse compared to the 2004 tasted alongside. The palate…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Giscours showed more vestige of fruit than the 1988 du Tertre with light mulberry and blackberry scents, touches of wild hedgerow and orange peel. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannin, a little dry in the mouth with some astringency towards the finish, although there is decent substance. It is old school Bordeaux,…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2004 Salon (Edition 2019) is fabulous. That is hardly a surprise, as the 2004 has always been magnificent. Subtle, nuanced and classy to the core, the 2004 shows the more refined side of Salon. In that sense, it shares a good bit stylistically with both the 2007 and 2008, but much less so than…

Vinous Table: The Ledbury, London, UK (Mar 2023)

We started with a 2004 Salon. I have to admit that this bottle does not bowl me over. Steely and aloof, I find the aromatics “distant”. The palate is taut and malic, with just a hint of orange zest coming through with a sapid finish. Fine length, but I could not engage with this champagne,…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

This is the first time that I encountered the 2004 Salon, this in magnum format. What a gem! It has a typically steely and almost terse nose before it opens with thrilling scents of dew dappled green apples and citrus lemon mixed with crushed limestone. The palate is crystalline, brilliantly defined and poised with an…