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Northern Rhône: Where Diversity Ignites the Senses (Mar 2024)

The refined 2020 Saint-Joseph hits the palate with great concentration and a juicy core of red fruits. Pencil shavings, crushed violets and cedar add more layers. Maintaining spot-on balance and neatly framed by polished tannins, the 2020 Saint-Joseph is classic Gonon. It is less ripe and flamboyant than the 2018 or 2019, but offers more…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Deep magenta. Displays expansive aromas of black raspberry, cherry liqueur, candied flowers and olive, along with exotic spice and smoky mineral nuances. Weighty as well as energetic in style, offering sappy, mineral-drenched black and blue fruit preserves, floral pastille flavors and hints of star anise and allspice. Finishes juicy, lively and wonderfully long, with resonating…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Deep, bright red. Blueberry, licorice, violet, menthol and fresh herbs on the nose, with a medicinal reserve. The rather backward medicinal character follows through on the palate, but there’s also a deeply seductive, succulent quality to this grand cru’s very fresh dark fruit and spice flavors. The building tannins are supported by the wine’s lush…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Lafite-Rothschild has a well-defined bouquet, earthy in style, with cedar and wild strawberry at the start and later flanked by dried rose petals. Given that this is a First Growth, it does miss a bit of cohesion and horsepower. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins and a keen thread of acidity,…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Suduiraut has a clean, pure bouquet of light marmalade, lanolin, curry leaf and wax resin aromas, quite complex and developing more and more personality with aeration. The palate is well balanced, with a viscous, almost unctuous opening. This is richer and heavier in style than many 2016 Sauternes, but maybe just loses some…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Suduiraut is fabulous. Crème brȗlée, passion fruit, tangerine peel and exotic floral notes all race out of the glass. I marvel at how Suduiraut can deliver so much flavor intensity and yet remain so gracious and classy. The 140 grams of residual sugar are very well integrated. This is such a gorgeous wine.