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Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2014 Blanc de Noirs Côte de Bechalin La Parcelle is bright, focused and tightly wound, all of which will serve it well in the future. I especially admire the tension and energy here. Readers should plan on cellaring the 2014 for at least a few years. It”s an absolutely exquisite wine and a hidden…

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Marsannay Clos du Roy, a parcel that joined the portfolio in 2021, has a delineated and quite sophisticated bouquet that blossoms in the glass. The propitiousness of the terroir shines through here. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins. It's quite Gevrey-like, very harmonious and elegant with a succinct, quite minerally finish….

The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Gombaude Guillot offers pleasant black fruit laced with undergrowth and pressed flower scents, although I would like more delineation to manifest with time. The nicely poised palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine line of acidity and hints of black pepper and clove toward the finish. A delightful Pomerol from this biodynamic…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

Chapelle d'Ausone might very well be the best second wine in Bordeaux in 2018, and it is certainly a lot more compelling than many top cuvées. Inky, deep and voluptuous, the Chapelle shows all of the natural suppleness of Merlot to great effect. Soft curves and silky tannins round things out in style. It is…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Chapelle d’Ausone was poured after the La Clotte, though in retrospect I would have reversed the order, because the aromatics here are more backward and sultry. They uncurl to reveal black cherries, briar, crushed rock/basalt and very light violet scents, all incredibly well focused. The palate is medium-bodied, sporting another silky, satin-like texture…

Exploring Northern Rhône Whites (May 2020)

Translucent yellow. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe pear, yellow plum, orange zest, smoky minerals and jasmine, along with a deeper suggestion of honey. Honeysuckle, energetic, sharply delineated citrus, orchard fruit flavors stain the palate and become weightier with aeration. The mineral note expands as the wine opens up and drives an impressively long, chewy…