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Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 1945 Latour is an outstanding Pauillac, though personally, I have never placed it within the top tier of wines from this First Growth. As usual, that trademark whiff of wild mint wafts from the glass, matched by cedar and cassis aromas. A touch of sandalwood emerges a few minutes in the glass. Potent and…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1945 Latour, which I have been lucky enough to taste several times, came directly from the château. It reveals that unmistakable peppermint trait on the nose that I once scurrilously compared to a McClaren Vale Cabernet (I don’t think Frédéric Engerer forgave my comparison.) There is a stronger leathery note to this bottle that…

2010 and 2009 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2012)

(this is reportedly all petite serine): Inky purple. Highly perfumed, exotic bouquet of raspberry and blueberry preserves, incense, violet and minerals, with a smoky topnote. At once ripe and lively, offering palate-staining berry and cherry-cola flavors and intense back-end floral character. Finishes spicy and long, with impressive energy and lingering spiciness.

2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

Good deep red. Superripe aromas of dark cherry, raspberry and resiny earth; hints of surmaturite Dense, sweet and full; hugely ripe and tannic. The wine’s slightly porty suggestion of roasted nuts on the back, in conjunction with a tonic mineral quality, makes this tough going today. With air, this grew fresher and showed stronger finishing…

Songs Full of Light – Lafaurie-Peyraguey 1906-2018 (Aug 2019)

The 1997 Lafaurie-Peyraguey has been a consistent performer over the years. Dried honey, lanolin, beeswax and hints of quince are all delivered with energy and precision. The palate is medium-bodied, offering a viscous texture and ample honeyed fruit laced with orange pith and Seville orange marmalade. What struck me with this bottle is the acidity…

1998 and 1997 Sauternes (Jul 2000)

Cooler aromas of spearmint, clove oil and caraway seed; riper exotic fruit scents emerged with extended aeration. Intense flavors of pineapple, lime and mint, plus a repeating note of caraway seed. This is sharply delineated and quite lively, and showing much more structure and grip-but a less accessible texture-than a sample tasted from barrel a…