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Abruzzo: The Great Divide (Oct 2022)

The 2020 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva blends rich notes of honeysuckle, vanilla custard and white flowers with vivid dried peaches and crushed rocks that evolve into white smoke. This soothes the palate with near-oily textures, while also stimulating it with a mix of intense lemony concentration and penetrating mineral tones. The 2020 finishes with a bitter…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2006 Yquem is initially tightly-wound on the nose before revealing enticing scents of mandarin, dried honey, quince and just a very slight adhesive scent. This is well-defined yet certainly demands more coaxing than its peers. The palate is well-balanced with fine delineation, a caressing viscous texture with desiccated orange peel and a touch of…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Troplong Mondot is a vintage that I have tasted for many many years i.e never. It has quite a deep colour. It has a very pleasant bouquet, maybe a little gentle after 30 years, brambly blackberry and bilberry fruit, quite precise, hints of black truffle developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Medium red. Sweet aromas of redcurrant, plum and smoky oak. Lush and sweet in the mouth, with a softer texture than the ’96. Round and fairly full. Expressive red fruit and sweet oak flavors. The crop was bigger in ’95 than in ’96 but I find this wine equally concentrated. Finishes with thoroughly suave tannins…

Pages in the Photo Album: Vieux Château Certan 1928-2013 (Mar 2022)

The 1995 Vieux Château Certan is a very capable wine that is now reaching its peak. The Cabernet Franc has always been the key component, imparting a lovely ferrous, undergrowth note on the nose that neatly counterbalances the intense red and black fruit laced with mint. The palate is ripe and generous with kirsch and…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Pale color. Youthful aromas of lemon, quince, pear, toast, spice, chalk and red berries. Big, sweet and seamless, if a bit clenched in the early going. A powerful, very young wine whose fruit builds slowly in the mouth and explodes on the finish. A charry note contributes to its complexity. Possesses amazing depth of fruit,…