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2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Reseve de la Comtesse is round, sensual and inviting, with sweet floral notes that give the wine much of its up-front appeal. Silky, polished tannins wrap around a core of black cherry jam, plum, smoke and savory herbs. The 2012 could use a bit more mid-palate depth, but it is an attractive wine…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Réserve de la Comtesse has a well-defined pencil box-scented bouquet, tightly-wound black fruit with just a light floral tincture. The palate is medium-bodied with firm grip, a little dry compared to the previous wine [2012 d’Armailhac]. Bullish and assertive with strong tobacco notes on the finish. Where will this go? Tasted blind at…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(13.6% alcohol; 40 h/h): Bright red. Very complex, deep nose of blackcurrant, red cherry, coffee, tar, tobacco leaf and flowers. Then smooth, rich and dense, with a creamy texture and lively acidity nicely extending the flavors of dark berries, plum, mocha, soy sauce, leather and Oriental spices. A ripely tannic wine with a rich, exotic…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1990 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that once upon a time I drank regularly, although I had not seen it since March 2016. Poured against the 1990 Lafite-Rothschild, this is the clear winner. Still youthful in color with modest bricking. The bouquet explodes from the glass with kirsch, mulberry, antique furniture and black truffle…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep healthy red-ruby. Knockout nose combines nearly candied cherry and raspberry fruit, grilled nuts, coffee, tobacco, game, earth and mint. Great silky sweetness in the mouth, thanks to fabulously pure, ripe cabernet franc. Finishes with extraordinary sweetness and great persistence, with the ripe tannins currently buried under a wave of fruit. A fabulous vintage for…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Dark red. Violet, sweet smoky oak and a hint of black pepper on the inviting, perfumed nose. Easygoing and sweet, with pliant flavors of black cherry, dark berries and smoky milk chocolate. Finishes with round tannins and subtle sweet, spicy length. Not a gripping style but very typical of Chasse Spleen, if more concentrated and…