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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Chasse-Spleen has a simple, earthy bouquet, a little dustiness at first although that soon dissipates with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly soft tannin on the entry, moderate depth, well-judged acidity with a sandalwood and tobacco infused finish that has a spring in its step. A very fine for Chasse-Spleen, although not…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright, moderately saturated red-ruby. Raspberry and licorice aromas and flavors are lifted by a violet topnote. Juicy and nicely ripe, with harmonious acidity energizing this medium-bodied wine. Finishes with firm tannins, a note of fresh herbs and good length, turning a bit dry as it opened in the glass.

2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

Good red-ruby. Reticent, pure aroma of medicinal black cherry. Silky and suave on the palate but a bit more austere and reserved today than the Cailles. Lovely cherry and raspberry fruit is framed by minerality. This mounts slowly and impressively, coating the palate with flavor. When a Nuits-Saint-George wine is velvety like this one is,…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Good full, deep red. Sappy dark cherry, raspberry, flowers and smoky oak on the nose. Juicy, intense and strong, with good density for village wine. Flavors of dark fruits and bitter chocolate. Possesses firm mineral spine and sound balancing acidity. Finishes with very good length.

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1996 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I have not tasted for a number of years. Matured in two-thirds new oak, it has an open and expressive bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, estuarine scents, touches of liquorice emerging with time. It is higher-toned than the 1995 with iodine evolving with aeration. The…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright medium ruby. Deep, superripe aromas of dark berries, black cherry and bitter chocolate; slightly exotic crystallized fruit aspect. Dense, sweet and wonderfully rich; a lovely combination of palate-caressing chocolatey fruit and firm underlying structure. Finishes with excellent grip and great palate-saturating sweetness. Another outstanding 1996 Medoc wine in the making. Drink 2010 through 2030.