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2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Very pale red. Complex nose offers a subtle red raspberry note along with some earthy underbrush. Juicy and intense on entry, then sweeter and richer than the Beaux-Monts in the middle palate, with good lift and a floral nuance. Finishes with dusty tannins and a slight heaviness this wine did not show in barrel. I…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1982 Cos d’Estournel is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. I have always fallen for the aromatics of this 1982: roasted chestnut and a touch of aniseed that combines effortlessly with the melted red berry fruit, touches of tar developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, perhaps not…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2008 Cristal Rosé is unquestionably one of the greatest wines longtime Chef de Cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon has made at Roederer. Bright saline and chalky notes run through a core of vibrant, red-toned fruit. The 2008 is tightly wound and nervous, yet it also has more than enough depth to keep it from being overly…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Gold-tinged color. Deep, maturing aromas of toffee, butterscotch, ginger and molasses. Fat and rich in the mouth, with excellent intensity; in the mature Bollinger style but far more successful than the bottling from the lower-acid 1989 vintage. Thick with extract, and palate-staining on the aftertaste. A main-course Champagne.

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2012 Grands-Échézeaux is quite dark and somber in 2012. Powerful tannins give the Grands-Échézeaux much of its verticality and pure power. Dark cherry, plum, spices and a host of mentholated, balsamic notes are woven throughout. The 2012 is built for the long haul, that much is obvious. I wouldn’t plan on opening a bottle…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Bright, full red. Aromas of red cherry, raspberry, clove, minerals and flowers are more refined than those of the Echézeaux. More velvety and plush than the Echézeaux but also sappy, minerally and taut, with red berry and spice flavors complicated by floral and saline elements. A very deep Grands-Echézeaux with a powerful structure and a…