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Grand Cru Culinary Wine Festival 2015 (Mar 2016)

Another wine with extraordinary aromatic presence, the 1990 Romanée-Conti is just beginning to enter the peak of its maturity and also quite feminine in its personality. As it often is, the Romanée-Conti is elusive and, at times, fleeting. The 1990 constantly changes in the glass, inviting a second taste, and then a third. It’s hard…

Fermented Grape Juice: Romanée-Conti 1953-2005 (Apr 2019)

The 1990 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru has a seductive and very sensual bouquet that for the first 30 minutes shades the 1991. It was picked on September 22 at 32hl/ha. Dark berry fruit, and hints of fresh fig and raisin permeate the luscious red fruit, later leather and sage joining the fray. There is warmth on…

The Best New Wines from Spain (Sep 2006)

Dark red. Intense, expressive aromas of blackberry, blueberry, cherry liqueur, sandalwood, cigar box, roasted coffee and exotic chocolate. Thick and sweet, with deep red and dark berry flavors complicated by an array of pungent spices, mocha, vanilla bean and cured tobacco. Deep, penetrating and very long on the finish, with wonderfully sweet cherry and blackcurrant…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Grand Puy Lacoste, which was vinified in epoxy-lined concrete vats, was tasted at the château with Emeline Borie. Borie remarked that it evinced a more rustic approach at the estate, and to honest, it did not impress. A week later, I took my own bottle that I had acquired via a West Country…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Lafon-Rochet is more concentrated on the nose than the Pagodes de Cos that precedes it: blackberry briar and melted tar, gaining delineation with aeration. The oak is well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied, with sapid black fruit and iodine, and there is a noticeable marine influence towards the finish. Moderate length. Drink now…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Grand-Puy-Lacoste has a punchy bouquet of red and black fruit with light touches of wild mint and sage. This is actually a little Right Bank in style so it lacks a bit of typicité. The palate is medium-bodied with smooth tannins on the entry, slightly savoury red berry fruit and hints of iodine…