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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Nearly opaque glass-staining purple-ruby. Overripe nose combines aromas of blackberry, bitter chocolate, cedary oak and truffle. Lush and rather exotic in the mouth, with the liqueur-like quality extending to the ripe black fruit, chocolate and candied violet flavors. Starts off quite sweet but finishes a bit hot and abrupt, with slightly astringent tannins. Some critics…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 La Fleur-Pétrus is tightly wound on the nose at first with plenty of black truffle infused red fruit, crushed rose petals and veins of dark chocolate, but it does not quite possess the amplitude of say, the 2009 Le Gay. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip and good tension. Pure red and…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright red-ruby. Reticent nose hints at plum. Fat, sweet and voluminous, with mouthfilling plum and cherry fruit flavors complicated by smoke and underbrush. This seriously concentrated and firmly structured wine is most impressive today on the long, insinuating finish, which offers terrific focus for a 2009 Pomerol.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

I have not tasted the 1985 Dom Pérignon in a very long time. It is in a perfect place. Lucid amber/gold in colour, it has an effervescent nose with orange pith, gingerbread and even a touch of white-tipped strawberry, becoming nuttier as it opens in the glass with fine delineation. The palate is smooth and…

Chianti Classico 2015 & 2016: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2019)

The 2015 Le Pergole Torte captures all the radiance and intensity of the vintage. Deep, powerful and resonant, the 2015 will be a racy wine once it emerges from its recent bottling. As always, the Pergole Torte is differentiated from the Montevertine by its greater textural richness and perfume. In 2015, Pergole Torte is exotically…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

(55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay) Light, bright gold. Spicy citrus and orchard fruit aromas are complemented by chalk, white flowers and a touch of smokiness. Taut, linear lemon and orange rind flavors give way to deeper pear in the mid-palate and pick up notes of honeysuckle and toasted grain with air. Still very young…