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2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… (Feb 2021)

The 2016 Barolo Monprivato is rich, sensual and layered in the glass, with a bit more mid-palate depth and creaminess than past vintages have shown. Bright red berry fruit, blood orange, mint, spice and rose petal are some of the notes that grace this pliant, open-knit Barolo.

Bartolo Mascarello 1955 to…from Magnum (Jul 2023)

The 2016 Barolo (magnum) is obviously a very, very young wine and yet its inclusion in this flight is essential, both for getting a glimpse of the wine at this early stage and also for understanding its place among recent vintages. Supremely elegant and classically austere in bearing, the 2016 is sublime. The vibrancy of…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Yquem has an attractive bouquet with marmalade, caramelized pear, orange pith and light puff pastry notes. It just needs a little more delineation. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, lightly spiced and impressive focus. Like the aromatics, I would have just liked a little more precision on…

Bordeaux 2010: The Sweet Wines (Aug 2011)

Deep yellow with a golden tinge. Intense aromas of very ripe tropical fruit, beeswax, honey and raisin are lifted by a strong mineral edge. Very fresh, rich and sweet on entry, then extremely light on its feet, with refined flavors of ripe citrus, mango, papaya, honey and saffron complicated by tangy botrytis. A very bright…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Glass-staining inky purple color. Highly perfumed, vinous nose offers candied violet and spicy plum complicated by hints of minerals and graphite. The palate offers a nice balance between spicy black fruits and ripe tannins. A bit warm and chunky on the back, but finishes with good grip and length. This has the nose of a…

Barbaresco: The Highs & Lows of 2016-2020 (Oct 2020)

The 2017 Barbaresco Costa Russi is gorgeous. Dark, layered and wonderfully inviting, the Costa Russi expresses the restrained style of the vintage and yet has terrific depth. Black cherry, plum, mocha, spice, leather and star anise build as this sumptuous, classically mid-weight Barbaresco shows of all of its pedigree. The 2017 is a lighter Costa…