Archives: Product Reviews

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1997 and 1996 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 1999)

Medium-deep red. Less forthcoming but nuanced aromas of leather, pepper, black raspberry and brown spices. Fat but unforthcoming in the mouth; more closed than Rostaing’s ’96 Viaillère. The pepper and leather flavors are complicated by notes of licorice and fresh blood. Strong acidity. This may well merit a 90-point score with three of four years…

2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

Roasted aromas of game, truffle, smoke and pepper. Rich, supple and smoky, with subtle animal and woodsmoke flavors and lovely vinosity. A rather polite La Landonne, finishing with leather and smoke notes, fine tannins and very good length. A bit tight after the recent bottling: will it show the grip for outstanding?

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Bright, deep red. Raspberry, iodine, smoke and earth on the musky, slightly reduced nose. Chewy, dense and stuffed with sweet material but without any impression of weight. Finishes with palate-staining intensity and a captivating truffley nuance. A classic and classy Vosne-Romanee with grand cru length and thrust.

2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

Full red-ruby. Fresh but inexpressive nose hints at kirsch, licorice and minerals. Lively in the mouth but quite reserved and not yet showing its personality or sweetness. But this is a firmly structured, intensely flavored wine with a serious tannic spine. Here’s a 2003 that really calls for a decade of patience-and a wine that…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2001 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in two-thirds new oak for 12 months, is a vintage that I feel has never quite lived up to the billing given the performances of its peers. Now at 20-years of age, the nose is more evolved than others, attractive though with clove, loam, tomato vine and red berry fruit. I…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Moderately saturated ruby-red. Aromas of redcurrant, cedar and tobacco. At once juicy and soft, with currant and tobacco flavors. Offers a silky texture and lovely volume but not quite the structure or grip of the 2002. But this is lush, captivating claret.