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Vinous Table: Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, New York (Dec 2015)

A collection of stunning older northern Rhônes puts a strong exclamation point on this night of fabulous food, wine and conversation. The 1978 La Chapelle from Jaboulet is full of deep, woodsy aromas and flavors. Still, deep, rich and positively explosive in the glass, the 1978 is a real treat to taste and drink. The…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

(included a small portion of 9-year-old vines but mostly vines in excess of 40) Medium red. Captivating, highly nuanced aromas of raspberry, minerals, crushed stone and musky underbrush. Rich, broad, ripe and sweet; a step up in volume over the foregoing wines. Flavors of spicy red berries, mocha and underbrush really saturate the palate without…

2007 and 2006 White Burgundies (Sep 2008)

(bottled one week prior to my visit) Full medium yellow. Ripe yellow peach on the subdued nose. Fat and rich but quite dry, with a strong spice character currently dominating the wine’s fruit. Powerful but a bit lacking in precision. Finishes with a suggestion of warmth. This will probably be best for relatively early drinking.

The Good, Bad and Ugly: Burgundy 2010, 2003 & 2004 (Jun 2020)

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes from Etienne Sauzet has an attractive bouquet featuring scents of lemon curd and orange pith behind the crushed stone aromas, although it does not quite deliver the same precision as Leflaive’s Combette. The palate is well balanced with just a touch of reduction on the entry and a fine bead…

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

Bright, pale yellow-straw color. Musky, reticent aromas of citrus peel, vanilla and white flowers. Chewy and perfumed in the mouth; not yet as thick as the Champ-Canet but sappy and energetic, showing a captivating note of white rose and lovely mineral cut. This tightly coiled, saline wine also boasts terrific length but is very young.

Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

Sauzet’s 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes is harmonious and beautifully balanced. Nothing in particular stands out. Ultimately, the Combettes is a wine of textural roundness and suppleness. Hints of reduction appear on the finish but they are balanced by the wine’s sheer depth in this case.