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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 46% merlot, 39% cabernet sauvignon, 13% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; 14% alcohol; pH 3.88; 77 IPT) Dark ruby-red. Reticent, brooding nose hints at red cherry, blackcurrant, violet, minerals and cedar. Extremely fine-grained and smooth, with harmonious acidity giving laser-like precision to the red fruit and mineral flavors. Completely devoid of…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Clarence de Haut-Brion has a refined and elegant bouquet with pure red fruit, undergrowth, clove and leather, perhaps just a little brettanomyces becoming more obvious with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, rounded in texture with truffle and leather infused red fruit. There is fine grip on the finish and it…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Light copper color. Oily, pungent, expressive aroma dominated by pineapple syrup; a slightly dank quality quickly dissipated. Thick, resiny and intensely spicy in the mouth, though still rather tightly wound; deeper-pitched and honeyed, with an unusually velvety texture for this wine. Finishes slightly harsh, with a suggestion of phenolics and a bit of heat, plus…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

Limpid gold in color, the 2001 Doisy-Védrines offers beeswax, honeysuckle and quince jelly on the nose; hints of gingerbread emerge with time. The oak comes through a bit here, which is odd after two decades. The palate is vibrant and tensile on the entry, delivering the weight one expects from this Barsac, allied with a…

Focus on Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2004)

Pale yellow. Exotic, expressive aromas of apricot, honey, white raisin and caramel. Superripe and moderately thick but with sound acids giving it excellent balance. Flavors of toffee, caramel, honey, grilled nuts and spicy oak. The very long finish features a superripe suggestion of marzipan but also lovely limey lift.

Vinous Table: T’ang Court, Hong Kong (Sep 2018)

The 2001 Château Musar is drinking beautifully right now, with notes of tobacco and flint complementing the dark berry aromas and flavors and polished tannins. Although the 2001 turns slightly austere on the long finish, it strikes me as a fruitier less gamey than usual Musar that is drinking perfectly now.