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Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1996 Clinet is a vintage I am glad to retaste, made just a few days after Ronan Laborde’s father took over the property in March 1999. It spent 21 weeks in new oak plus 5 months in stainless steel. This bottle is similar to the one I tasted in 2016. Hints of smudged red…

Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1985 Pichon-Baron is fully mature on the nose, featuring vigorous blackberry, raspberry confit, dried blood and oxtail aromas, almost Rhône-like in style. It is one of the few bouquets of this Second Growth that you might describe as “animally.” The fleshy, medium-bodied palate offers supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity and pretty red…

Bruce’s Birthday Bash 2010 (Jul 2010)

Rhȏne lovers were out in full force on this night. Sadly, I only got to taste a handful of the wines being passed around. Still, these were four of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. The 1990 La Chapelle held its own in this grouping, and then some. The purity of the fruit and…

Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1988 Pichon-Baron is, thankfully, a different kettle of fish compared to the awful 1987. It has a very agreeable, classic graphite and pencil box bouquet that delivers satisfying levels of fruit compared to many of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, considering the austere nature of the vintage. There is plenty…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

Christian Seely advised that magnums of the 1988 Pichon Baron are now far superior to bottles. Only one way to find out. Two magnums tasted and both completely vindicate Seely’s view. The bouquet is the personification of a mature Pauillac on the nose with graphite and cedar-infused black fruit. There’s a hint of cassis in…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2015 Dom Pérignon is super-expressive today. The first signs of aromatic development have begun to appear, suggesting the 2015 is slowly heading into its first plateau of maturity. Light tropical accents mingle with savory undertones. The 2015 is elegant, medium in body and super-expressive. I imagine the 2015 will mature a touch early by…