Archives: Product Reviews

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Focus on California (May 2003)

Deep ruby-red. High-toned aromas of dusty currant, black raspberry, graphite and minerals. Very suave, minerally and vibrant, but less obviously ripe and smaller-scaled than the great ’99, which showed explosive aromatics, remarkable breadth and texture, and great inner-mouth energy in early March, meriting 95 points. With a bit less mid-palate thickness and extract, the tannins…

Barbaresco: The Highs & Lows of 2016-2020 (Oct 2020)

The 2017 Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn is a tightly wound and austere wine that is going to need at least a few years to soften. Today, it is decidedly tight and lighter in body than is customary. Last year, the 2017 had more body, but it seems to have lost some of that depth since then….

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru has a lovely dark plummy bouquet, kirsch and a touch of liquorice, perhaps a little sur-maturité. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, black cherries, hints of peppermint with a cassis finish. Maybe this just doesn’t quite deliver the persistency that I anticipated when I…

Further Inroads Into Burgundy 2020 (May 2022)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru has quite an open and expressive bouquet with blackberry, crushed rock and undergrowth, almost peaty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite gritty in texture and tight with a saline finish. This will require 3-4 years. It is a bit abrasive at the…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru has a warm bouquet. There’s more red fruit here, with floral scents emerging—violet and peony—fine delineation and nicely integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly edgier tannins, fine structure, a little more peppery in style (possibly due to the whole bunch), gentle grip, and…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon Rosé has finally started to fill out. A bit. Rose petal, pink grapefruit, white pepper, slate, mint and sage gradually appear in the glass. The 2008 remains rather austere, befitting a cold vintage with what has now become a very rare October harvest. Vibrant and yet also clenched, the 2008 still…