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Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Gruaud Larose was cropped at 31hl/ha with one-third of the production in the Grand Vin, picked 14-29 September. The 13.18% alcohol is lower than recent vintages. It is quite tightly wound on the nose with blackberry, blueberry, iris petal, cedar and marine/seaweed aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chalky tannins on the…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Léoville Barton is compelling. It offers up a gorgeous mix of vintage 2020 intensity married to the classicism Léoville-Barton have come to expect. Blackberry, graphite, dried herbs, menthol and dark spice abound. Whereas so many Saint-Juliens are exuberant in 2020, Léoville-Barton is very much buttoned up, showing just a twinkle of mischief that…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Léoville-Barton marries the richness of the vintage with the classically restrained style that is so typical of Léoville-Barton. Graphite, licorice and dark spice are all laced throughout a core of inky dark fruit. The 2020 is powerful and linear, with tons of depth lying in reserve, just waiting to emerge. I won't be…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

In some ways, the 2020 Léoville Barton has become more serious than when I encountered it from barrel. It’s lost its puppy fat and delivers quite intense blackberry, blueberry and incense aromas, a little oak to be assimilated yet still very focused. The palate is medium-bodied with a “coolness” on the entry, taut yet deep…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Léoville Barton was picked September 15–16 and matured in 70% new oak. It is one of the best vintages that I have encountered in barrel. Wow! This shoots from the glass with beautifully defined black fruit, mineral-rich aromas, pixelated with laser-like focus. The palate is medium-bodied with chiseled tannins, a perfect line of…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(from vines picked near the beginning of the harvest; just about finished with its malolactic fermentation): Pale yellow color. Aromas of peach, white pepper and menthol. Nicely concentrated flavors of pineapple, stone fruits, clove and saline minerality juxtapose a subtle savory character with a sexy touch of sweetness. A step up in texture and length…