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Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru has a more “aloof” bouquet. It’s Zen-like at first, with apple blossom and light, wet pavement scents. However, I would have liked more intensity. The palate is nicely balanced with deftly integrated oak. A silver bead of acidity keeps this Puligny on its tiptoes, fresh and saline so…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru is a little more reduced on the nose and less expressive than the preceeding Les Referts. After a couple of minutes though, it develops an attractive liquorices scent. The palate is well balanced with good concentration slightly higher toned than the La Garenne and the Les Referts with…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Village, a blend of several parcels, has a light Granny Smith and wet limestone-scented bouquet. It could benefit from more intensity. The palate is well balanced with more depth than expected, fine acidity though it just misses a little complexity and tension on the finish.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Village has quite an intense and voluminous bouquet, quite Chassagne-like in style. The palate is taut and fresh with Clementine and apricot notes, modest weight with a lilting finish. Fine.

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru has an exquisite bouquet with pure dark cherries, raspberry preserve and crushed stone aromas, very focused and classy, yet totally understated. The palate is very supple in the mouth, wonderful acidity, a little more corpulent than the Caillerets with a sense of lushness on the finish. I just…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Talbot is aromatically quite expressive, but less available on the palate, where it is quite closed down. Time in the glass brings out a host of sweet tobacco, smoke, leather, cedar, mint, licorice and red-toned fruit. In two tastings, Talbot gave the impression it is going to need at least a few years…