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Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2015 Beychevelle has evolved since I last tasted it, this bottle showing a pronounced camphor, slightly medicinal scent that threatens to obscure the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. This is very pliant and fresh, focused, albeit without the bravura of the 2016. Persistent though and with a fine spicy finish,…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Beychevelle has a fresh blackberry and briary bouquet of impressive delineation and vigor; hints of smoke and pencil shavings emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, wonderful tension and an almost effervescent, nervous finish that leaves a tongue-tingling dash of black pepper in its wake. So much potential here. As…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Beychevelle comes across as much more powerful and plush in bottle than it did as a barrel sample. The black cherry, smoke, leather, tobacco, spice and incense notes are all endowed with notable textural depth. Voluptuous but also quite tannic, the 2015 is going to need at least a few years to come…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 2004 Chateau Margaux is one of the dark horses of the decade. This bottle, which came directly from the château cellars, accidentally landing in my hands (long story), reconfirms the caliber. The bouquet takes a little time to find its feet, eventually offering richly layered scents with raspberry, blackberry, crushed rock and pencil shavings….

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Château Margaux has an enticing nose with mainly red fruit and a light cedar and irony tincture. It’s mature but still vigorous and has plenty in the tank. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, tensile entry. It’s irony (again) with a welcome spiciness on the finish. More concentrated than you…

Vinous Table: Cornus, London, UK (Oct 2024)

The 2004 Château Margaux is a vintage that I tasted earlier this year at the château, although here it is a rare chance to savor the wine from neck to punt. What a joy. It is certainly open for business on the nose, leaning towards red rather than black fruit, violet and peony, cedar and…