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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 de Fieuzal has a lovely nose, very vigorous, with blackberry, bilberry, hints of sea spray and seaweed. You can almost smell the Gironde in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, rounded in texture with good acidity. It just feels a little over-extracted on the finish when you really want it…

Brunello di Montalcino 2007 and 2006 Riserva (Jul 2012)

Bright, dark red with ruby highlights. Youthfully medicinal aromas of dark fruits and minerals. Brooding and primary today, with powerful black cherry, licorice, mineral and menthol flavors dominated by the wine’s firm tannic spine. This extremely backward, structured riserva will need a good eight to ten years of aging and should be long-lived, but it’s…

Brunello di Montalcino 2007: A Worthy Successor to 2006 (Apr 2012)

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is huge, powerful and totally implosive. The seductive allure of the 2007 is nowhere to be found. Instead, the 2006 is built on a serious spine of formidable tannin and dark red/black fruit. Hints of tar, licorice, rose petals and tobacco inform the powerful, virile finish. The…

2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

Inky purple. Intensely perfumed nose displays a seductive bouquet of candied red and dark berries, kirsch, violet and minerals, plus a strong jolt of smoked meat. Spherical dark fruit flavors stain the palate, showing no rough edges and a slow-mounting floral pastille quality. Fresh, nervy and precise, with excellent finishing lift and precision. Manages to…

Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Jul 2012)

Bright, pale green. Subtle, delicate aromas of white peach, mint, crushed stone and chlorophyll. Less complex today than the Preuses but this is still an infant. All about white peach lifted by white pepper. Fine-grained, silky and utterly vibrant wine, delivering outstanding density and fullness without weight. Great slowly mounting finish promises much more to…

Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Aug 2012)

The 2010 Chablis Les Clos is all about understatement and balance. White floral notes meld into white stone fruit in this utterly gracious Chablis. Clos can at times be fleeting and elusive, and there is certainly some of that in the 2010. Still, it is impossible to miss the wine’s textural finesse and sheer overall…