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2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium red-ruby. Aromas of raspberry, plum, leather, tobacco and animal fur. Round and smooth, with sufficient vinosity but limited depth and dimension. Finishes with decent length and reasonably ripe tannins. This wine, with a high percentage of merlot (60%), will develop much more quickly than either the 2000 or 2001.

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

(a blend from the second harvest of the estate’s various vineyards; Villaine noted that the ’99 version of this wine did not include the second harvest from Romanee-Conti) Good full red. Fruit-driven aromas of plum and spice. Perfumed and sweet in the mouth, with an enticing spiciness but without quite the fine grain and density…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

In this setting, the 2012 Cristal Rosé is a cut above the 2012 Cristal. The Rosé’s explosive energy and vibrancy are both compelling, and also a very fine match for the food. Time in the glass brings out the breadth and creaminess of the year. The blend is 55% Pinot Noir from Aÿ and 45%…

Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

This bottle of 1998 Lafleur exudes such mineralité on the nose that it is rendered more distant and less appeasing to the senses than the 1999 Lafleur. However, there is undeniably brilliant delineation with almost flint-like scents filtering through the black sultry fruit. It is certainly less opulently gregarious than bottles tasted within the first…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Red-ruby. Reticent, somewhat sauvage aromas of briary blue fruits, licorice, mint and earth. Fat and dense, but less ripe and forthcoming than the ’99; in a distinctly tougher style, with intriguing mint and floral nuances from the cabernet franc. Finishes with firm, slightly rustic tannins. Reminiscent of the Lafleurs of old, but without the roasted…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is a potent, tightly wound Pauillac that will need a number of years to come together. Driving in its intensity, with searing tannins, the 2021 comes across as a bit severe today, with less of the charm and sensuality that is such a Mouton signature. That said, I was not thrilled…