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2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Marojallia is powerful and explosive in the glass. A rush of dark red fruit hits the palate first, followed by white pepper, herbs, licorice and mint nuances that add shades of dimension. Marojallia is one of the most powerful, dark wines of Margaux. It is also one of the most distinctive. Readers should…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Gracia is proprietor Michel Gracia’s top wine. I find it overextracted, angular and short, with rough edges in the tannins that overpower the fruit. The 2012 is 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Jean-Philippe Fort is the winemaker.

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(70% merlot, 25% cabernet franc and 5% cabernet sauvignon; 14.5% alcohol): Saturated inky-purple. Spicy ink and earth notes complement aromas of dark plum, blueberry liqueur and chocolate on the rich nose. Creamy but bright flavors of black fruits, sweet cocoa and coffee make for a very powerful, muscular style of Saint-Emilion. Finishes smooth and tactile,…

What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015 (March 2019)

The 2009 Suduiraut, aged in 55% new oak, is surprisingly closed at first but it soon awakens with aeration and begins revving its motor. It has a divine bouquet with honey, chamomile, yellow flowers and nectarine, building layer upon layer. The palate is medium-bodied with a viscous opening, a beautiful razor-sharp line of acidity that…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2009 Dom Pérignon Rosé is a sexy, racy wine that captures all the radiance of the year. Kirsch, blood orange, mint, spice and dried flowers unfurl in the glass. Soft, plush contours wrap it all together. Readers will find a Dom Pérignon Rosé endowed with tremendous textural depth and resonance. The 2009 is a…

Cellar Favorite: 1984 Château Margaux (Dec 2021)

The 1984 Château Margaux is showing expected degradation of colour; the nose is clearly more mature than two decades earlier, offering scents of roasted chestnut, sage, a slight torrefaction, singed leather and fireside hearth. Whilst the palate is rustic and a far cry from the brilliance of the previous two vintages, it is surfeit with…