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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Montrose has a slightly rustic bouquet but is quite charming. It offers mainly red fruit, bacon fat, undergrowth and peaty scents, which are very Saint-Estèphe in style. The palate is medium-bodied with melted tannins. It is savory and a little dry, especially towards the finish, though there is good weight, and it is…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2000 Haut-Brion has the upper hand over La Mission at the moment, and I don’t see that changing. It’s always been one of my favourite wines of the vintage. Blackberry and black olive, copious incense and terracotta notes almost hypnotize the senses. The palate is supremely well-balanced with finely sculpted tannins that frame the…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Haut-Brion has long been one of my favorite wines of this vintage, and at 21 years old it remains a tour de force. Blackberry, briar, black olive, incense and earthenware feature on the nose, which displays wonderful definition and so much personality. The palate is medium-bodied with a mixture of red and black…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full red-ruby. Roasted plum, currant, tobacco and minerals on the nose. Compellingly dense and thick but almost miraculously lively and light on its feet. Has a texture like liquid velvet, coating the entire palate. Wonderfully unmanipulated wine, with perfectly integrated acids giving it superb subtle vinosity and thrust. Finishes with outstanding building persistence, with the…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Saturated ruby. Potent, finely detailed aromas of red and dark fruit liqueur, smoked meat, potpourri and exotic spices, along with a vibrant mineral top note. Sappy, alluringly sweet and penetrating, offering intense cherry, boysenberry, allspice and star anise flavors and a potent suggestion of candied lavender. Silky, finely wrought tannins build steadily through an exceptionally…

Chablis 2008 and 2007 (Jul 2009)

Pale yellow. Compelling, high-pitched nose combines powdered stone, lemon peel, white pepper, violet, ginger and white truffle. Even more vibrant and precise than the Valmur if that’s possible, with incredible energy to its citrus peel and crushed rock flavors. Finishes with extraordinary clarity and finesse. A classic in the making.