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The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Straw-yellow. Peach, apple, pear and clove on the nose; cooler than the Meursault cuvées. Juicy and intense, offering sharply delineated, mineral-driven orchard fruit flavors. This wiry high-altitude wine is a bit austere on the back end.

2002 and 2001 White Burgundies (Sep 2003)

(bottled barely two weeks prior to my visit) Aromas of crystallized peach, yellow plum, spices and menthol. At once rich and high-pitched; tightly wound and less showy and sweet than the Bienvenue. A rather austere, even severe style of Batard, finishing uncompromisingly dry but with excellent chewy length.

Vinous Table: TORC, Napa, USA (Oct 2021)

The 2001 Bâtard is absolutely stunning. What a wine! It’s everything one could ask for, and more. The aromatics alone are breathtaking. On the palate, the 2001 is vibrant, with the oiliness and texture of Bâtard, but no excess weight and exactly the sort of mellow patina a Grand Cru white Burgundy should show at…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(only modest crop losses to frost and mildew here): Tight nose offers scents of mirabelle, grapefruit and anise. This, too, conveys an impression of creaminess, but is more concentrated than the Bourgogne Blanc in spite of the closer-to-normal vine yields here. Finishes with a firm edge that calls for a year or two of patience.

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Pale, bright yellow. Refined aromas of white peach, spices and minerals. Classier and higher in acidity than the Meursault, with apple and stone fruit flavors carrying well on the back end. This wine was being bottled on the day of my visit.

Gaja: Sorì San Lorenzo 1971-2011 (Nov 2014)

The 2011 Sorì San Lorenzo boasts massive depth, intensity and power. Black fruit, smoke, tar, licorice, savory herbs and leather are some of the many notes that emerge from the glass. Regardless of the year, the personality of Sorì San Lorenzo always comes through, which is why this is one of the great sites in…