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Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good dark red. Red berries, spices, smoke and earth on the nose, plus a suggestion of blacker fruits. Rich but youthfully backward and serious, with dark fruit flavors complicated by graphite, pepper and minerals. This combines the best characteristics of the Costa Russi and Sori Tildin. Finishes long and vibrant, with substantial dusty tannins and…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was wonderful from barrel but now it seems to have gone up another level. It has an exquisite bouquet with wonderful mineralité infusing the brambly red fruit. Wonderful focus and quite profound complexity. You could nose this forever. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins married with…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is a transitional wine in terms of the changeover from Jacques Desvauges to former Château Grillet winemaker Alessandro Noli following its acquisition by Groupe Artémis. It has a mélange of red and black fruit on the nose, the 55% whole bunch imparting scents of black pepper, damp undergrowth…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is showing a bit of new oak on the nose, but it is simpatico with the pure red cherries, cranberry and wild strawberry scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins and a silver bead of acidity, full of tension and surfeit with energy. There is superb salinity…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes has the most refined and compelling bouquet of Roty’s three Grand Crus: exquisite delineation and precision, blackberry and raspberry coulis, hints of crushed stone and pressed rose petal aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly toasty black fruit, very intense and multi-dimensional. Great precision on the finish, with blood…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Deep ruby. Brooding, profound aromas and flavors of blackberry, boysenberry, black cherry, licorice and animal fur, complicated by smoky soil tones. Wonderfully thick and dense; primary and backward but not at all hard. Most impressive today on the refined back end, finishing with noble, seamless tannins, intense black cherry and violet lift, and terrific pungent…